This morning, I went to the USA Climbing Training Center in Salt Lake City. They have the 15-meter wall broken into three 5-meter sections. Coach Merritt had me primarily work on the top third of the speed route to make some minor improvements to my beta. By the end of the two-hour session, I was running the top 5-meter section faster than ever. Great practice!
Afterwards, I was dying to implement that new beta on the full 15-meter wall, so I went to Momentum Millcreek for a second session in the afternoon. My runs were all consistently under 7.50 seconds. I was enjoying the flow, so I kept doing runs and hunting for a Personal Record. On attempt #17 of the day, despite my hands burning because my skin was getting thin, I had a run that felt great on the way up. When I hit the timer, the clock showed 6.86 seconds! I knew it was a fast run, but I didn’t expect it to be under 7 seconds. It was my first sub-7 PR!
Breaking 7 seconds has boosted my confidence for Nationals, which is in 16 days. I think I have the speed to make the podium in Reno.